Church Road 

2005 

New Zealand - Hawkes Bay  

3 

3 

Bottle 

$150 

$200 

2005 Church Road Tom 19 + Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand: 13.5%; [ cork; DFB; release date 2009; Me 65%, CS 35, all hand-picked at c. 2.5 t/ac from 6-year old vines; cuvaison 3 weeks for the CS component, 4 weeks for Me; no BF; 22 months in French oak c. 85% new, no lees stirring; not fined, coarse filter only; RS < 0.1 g/L; 200 cases only; not on website for some time yet; www.churchroad.co.nz ] Ruby, carmine and velvet, one of the deepest, a magnificent colour. Bouquet is one of the most deeply floral and dusky in the set, darkest red roses and even violets, plus suggestions of lilac and lighter fractions, very beautiful. Below is rich cassis again very deep and dusky, grading into darkest bottled plums, wondrously rich yet not heavy, richer than the 2005 Quarry, and all enlivened by sweet fragrant potentially cedary and cigar-box oak subtly underpinning the fruit. Palate is all the bouquet and more, showing wonderful berryfruit. It can only be compared with a merlot-rich top second growth (except that unlike the previous Toms and some second growths, 2005 Tom shows no hint of brett). Aftertaste is velvety, saturated with dark berryfruits. I would love to have a dry extract for this wine it is exemplary. This is sensational and essential New Zealand wine, which can walk on any world stage that knows fine wine (as opposed to big wine). Finally after a very shaky start indeed, here is a Tom to match the growing myth of Tom McDonald, the man. This 2005 Church Road Tom may well be the greatest Bordeaux-blend winestyle ever created New Zealand. The fact that it was offered for comparative assessment in this review, in contradistinction to the wines of some aspirants to that status, shows how intense the desire to excel is nowadays in Pernod-Ricard's New Zealand wineries. What a challenge they are now laying down to other winemakers, along with Craggy Range. Cellar 10 - 25 years. GK 09/07

Geoff Kelly Wine Reviews: This 2005 Church Road Tom may well be the greatest Bordeaux-blend winestyle ever created New Zealand. 19+/20, 5 Stars. Stored in a wine rack, in a cool dark room.